The big catch: it's drilled for someone else
A used ball comes drilled to the previous owner's hand. Unless the span and pitch happen to suit you, you'll need it plugged and redrilled to fit — an added cost that can erase the savings. Factor redrilling into the price before you decide. Learn why fit matters in drilling layouts.
Check for oil saturation
Reactive coverstocks absorb oil over time, which dulls their reaction. A heavily used ball may be 'oil-soaked' and react weakly. The good news: oil can often be extracted to revive it (see ball maintenance) — but factor that effort in, and be wary of a ball that's clearly been run hard.
Inspect for cracks
Look closely for cracks, especially around the finger holes and thumb hole — cracks can render a ball unusable and aren't worth repairing. Surface scratches and track wear are normal and can be resurfaced; structural cracks are a dealbreaker.
Match it to your game
A bargain on a strong asymmetric ball is no bargain if you're a beginner who'll over-hook it on a dry house shot. Buy a used ball that fits your current game and conditions, not just one that's cheap. Our comparison page helps you match category to skill level.
When used makes sense
Used balls shine when you find a lightly-used model that suits you and the price (plus redrilling and a clean-up) beats new. They're also a low-risk way to try a coverstock type before committing. Just go in clear-eyed about fit and oil, and you can score a genuine deal.
Comparing your options?
See how ball types stack up on our comparison page, or browse new picks by budget in balls by budget.